Fashion Plays Big Part in 'Notorious'

Joy Sewing - Houston Chronicle

To play the role of Sean "Puffy" Combs in the new movie, Notorious B.I.G. which opens Friday, Derek Luke had to master the hip-hop mogul's signature dance.

It's sort of a cross between a two-step and jig. Much cooler, though.

Then Luke had to get into costume -- from Versace shirts to Combs' signature white suits.

"One of the reasons I loved playing Puff is because all of my wardrobe changes," says the 34-year-old Luke, who made his first film in Denzel Washington's directorial debut, Antoine Fisher, in 2002. "Part of swagger is the uniform."

In the hip- hop world, the uniform is as much a statement as the music.

Notorious chronicles the life of Christopher "Notorious B.I.G." Wallace, his friendship with Combs and his relationship to other hip-hop heavyweights, such as Lil' Kim, the late Tupac Shakur and R&B singer Faith Evans, Wallace's wife.

Wallace died at 24 in 1997, but he remains a legend in the music world for compelling lyrics that told of his struggle growing up poor and fatherless in Brooklyn, N.Y.

He was a hefty man who wore Kangol hats, colorful Coogi sweaters and gold chains, all while puffing a cigar.

"Whether you agree with his style or not, Biggie made a statement," said Paul Simmons, the movie's costume designer.

"As he became more famous, he started getting more conservative with his clothing. We have to give him credit for his style, and it did evolve."

Luke said he nearly walked away from the Combs role.

"I didn't want to play somebody that everybody knew," he said.

"But when I spoke to Puffy, he told me things I never heard before. I realized the media is overlooking one of the most brilliant minds in hip-hop. He was totally different than what I saw on Making the Band (Combs' MTV reality show). Puffy made it OK to shine."

In the movie, Luke nails his portrayal of Combs, from his on-stage persona wearing jerseys and baggy jeans to tailored three-piece suits for his nights at the club.

"Clothes just show an image and a profile of where you're going," Luke said. "Take the Versace shirts. They said, 'I'm about to step it up. I'm about to breeze through life. This is how I'm feeling and how I'm choosing to live.' The Tims (Timberland boots), the hoodies. That look was rough, rugged and raw and represents that street brand."

Though the movie spotlights Wallace's life, it also gives a glimpse into the world of hip-hop fashion dating to the mid-'80s.

The hip-hop scene was taking form then with groups such as Run DMC setting the foundation for the sound and style. With the group's ode to sneakers, My Adidas, Run DMC declared to the world just how much the look was a part of the hip-hop sound.

Over the next decade, a host of hip-hop stars also shone with their unique style.

LL Cool J wore the Kangol hats. Salt-N-Pepa had the spandex body suits and asymmetrical bobs. Queen Latifah sported African crowns. M.C. Hammer thrilled audiences with his blousy, glittery pants.

And Kris Kross, the two Atlanta boys, hit the stage with their clothes on backward and created a fad.

Through the years, hip-hop has continued to make an impression on fashion with the platinum mouth grills, flamboyant jewelry and, more recently, the preppy, tailored look from stars such as Kanye West and Andree 3000.

And many performers, including Russell Simmons, Nelly, Jay-Z and 50 Fifty Cent, have jumped into the fashion game with their own lines of clothing.

"Hip-hop has its own flavor," said Simmons, who has worked on movies such as American Gangster, Cold Mountain and Malcom X, as well as the '90s television series New York Undercover.

"It has its own trends. The hip-hop flavor was really a different look altogether because of how the garment was worn. The bagginess and low-riding trousers started with hip-hop."

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