Lori Ann Martin / Special to S&S
Leeds Castle combines Henry VIII’s refurbishments with early 20th-century renovations that blend flawlessly.
Year-round, stately swans fill the waterways surrounding the castle.
Leeds Castle belonged to the British royal family for centuries, and is one of the few castles in the region open through the winter.
Blue-green peacocks, and the rarer white variety, add to the regal atmosphere.
Leeds Castle claims to be the “loveliest castle in the world.”
Although that is quite a claim, the castle, surrounded by its own lake and magnificent grounds, certainly ranks high on the list of those not to be missed in southeast England. It is one of the few castles in the area open during the winter and is an easy excursion from London.
A manor house was built on the lake island in 857 by the Saxon royal family. The conquering Normans later built the first stone castle on the site. From Edward I through Henry VIII and beyond, Leeds Castle belonged to British rulers and their queens.
Various other noble families owned the castle until the late 1920s, when it was bought by Olive Paget, Lady Baillie, the granddaughter of U.S. Navy Secretary William Whitney, and wife of Sir Adrian Baillie. Lady Baillie restored and renovated Leeds Castle into the Tudor masterpiece it is today. It is now owned by a trust.
From the parking lot to the castle, the visitor walks through immaculate grounds of shade trees that turn color in the autumn cool, alongside streams filled with black and white swans, various species of ducks, and even a blue heron or two. Iridescent blue-green peacocks and rarer white peacocks walk by almost close enough to touch.
The first view of the tan-colored castle is a peek through the trees. Rounding the top of a small hill, the full beauty of the castle, surrounded by the dark blue lake, is revealed. A lower walkway on the opposite side leads to the oldest accessible part of the interior. The Norman cellar dates from the late 12th century and has been used to store wine and spirits since at least 1689.
The castle is an active conference center, so which rooms are viewed during a tour depends on availability. One of the most significant conferences held was in 1978 for a preliminary meeting between the United States, Egypt, and Israel prior to the Camp David Agreement.
Upstairs, original Tudor designs, such as a bay window and a carved fireplace believed to have been part of Henry VIII’s expansion, intermingle flawlessly with the reconstruction by Lady Baillie. Authentic period furniture, tapestries and paintings add to the atmosphere that leaves Tudor history fans wishing to linger as they imagine Henry and his court gathered beneath the windows. A chapel established in 1293 by Edward I was reconsecrated in 1978 by the Archbishop of Canterbury and is used for occasional services.
Fast-forwarding from the past, the castle moves toward the 20th century through the living area of Lady Baillie and her guests. Ceiling-high canopies top elegant beds, a paneled sitting room is warm and inviting, and the immense dining room seats 30.
The tour ends out the front door, where a circular lawn is set up for croquet. Across the green, the Gatehouse displays the unique Dog Collar Museum, containing collars from as far back as the mid-1600s. A number of these collars are quite elaborate, while others would add an element of fright to the human standing in front of the animal wearing it.
Several gardens and walkways lead to peaceful resting places. Bodies of water are prominent at Leeds Castle, bringing the wild fowl close at every turn. The peacocks wander close to the Tea Room and a small restaurant, looking for handouts.
If you want a bit more excitement, or perhaps the kids are not thrilled with history, the castle provides other attractions. The aviary houses more than 100 species of exotic birds, many with such bright colors that they appear to be painted. Toucans, parakeets, cockatoos and fancy cranes call to one another in the open-air setting. One even calls “hello” to visitors, but of course not when the video camera is on.
Just past the aviary is the yew-tree maze. With 2,400 individual trees, the 15-year-old maze is tall and solid. The winding route, with many dead-ends, is fun and frustrating. Squeals from children and adults alike fill the air. Those successful reaching the center are rewarded by a raised viewpoint.
To exit the maze, the darkness of a man-made grotto leads past carved mythical beasts and mosaics. A shell phoenix leads back into the light.
Any season is a good one to visit Leeds Castle. Spring highlights large fields of golden yellow daffodils and red rhododendrons, summer roses bloom in the gardens, and the woodland walk becomes a kaleidoscope of color in the fall. Although not as colorful, a winter visit can be enjoyable for the entire family.
If you go ...
Getting there: Leeds Castle is seven miles east of Maidstone at Junction 8 of the M20 motorway and is about an hour’s drive from London. Off the motorway, the castle is identified by brown-and-white tourism signs.
Trains leave London’s Victoria Station to Bearsted Station daily for the one-hour trip. A combined ticket covering the train, bus connection to the castle and admission is available.
Several sight-seeing companies offer bus tours to Leeds Castle.
Train schedules and details for tour companies are found at the castle Web site at www.leeds-castle.com under “Visitor Information/Travel Information.”
Details: The castle is open from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. (last admission) during the winter, Nov. 1 through March 31, (closed Christmas Day). Cost is 9.50 pounds (about $16) for adults and 6 pounds for children 4-15 years old. A family ticket for two adults and up to three children is 29 pounds. Discounts are available for visitors with disabilities and their helpers. A year-long Privilege Pass is also available for families and individuals. Prices and open hours change in April.
The walk from the parking lot to the castle is about two-thirds of a mile. A tram is available if desired.
Events: Open-air concerts, fireworks, a balloon festival, daily balloon rides and seasonal decorations. Visit the castle Web site for details on these events and arrangements for conferences, banquets and lodging facilities for personal and business use.
Lori Ann Martin is a lieutenant commander stationed at the U.S. Naval Hospital at Rota, Spain. E-mail her at ladylam37@hotmail.com.
This article is provided courtesy of Stars & Stripes, which got its start as a newspaper for Union troops during the Civil War, and has been published continuously since 1942 in Europe and 1945 in the Pacific. Stripes reporters have been in the field with American soldiers, sailors and airmen in World War II, Korea, the Cold War, Vietnam, the Gulf War, Bosnia and Kosovo, and are now on assignment in the Middle East. Stars & Stripes Website
