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By comparison, life at the base in the days leading up to Christmas was a picnic. Even a few jury-rigged showers were available. When operational, a laundry unit would attempt to scrub out the red hue from each article of clothing it received. M16 rounds, occasionally left in pockets of utility clothing, sometimes exploded, creating more than a little stress in the laundry unit. A cold beer would be available every now and then to troops at the base. A bunker-type structure, probably dating back to when the French occupied the base, served as a "club" for officers and staff noncommissioned officers. Mess halls included one operated for regimental headquarters personnel and another operated by 1st Bn.

Monsoon rains turned the Rao Quan River into a dangerous torrent, dictating the removal of the bridge by Marine engineers. After the bridge was removed from Route 9, food was in short supply at Khe Sanh, as Route 9 had been the sole overland supply route from Da Nang across the northern part of South Vietnam. From then on, everything arrived by air.

Thanksgiving provided a rare treat at the base: turkey with some but not all of the trimmings. Shortly after Thanksgiving, a food shortage meant that only two meals were served daily. Breakfast almost always included blueberry hotcakes. The second meal was a thin soup and a sandwich, usually bologna. Anyone desiring more substance could always find a can of ham and limas or other choice morsels from a box of C-rations.

In other parts of Vietnam, occasional USO shows would provide entertainment and a break from the monotony of day-to-day life. Unfortunately, these entertainment units could not visit Khe Sanh. Individual celebrities would sometimes fly in, spend an hour or so and then head out to other such outposts. These were dubbed "handshake" visits.

One such celebrity who appeared just before Christmas was Robert Stack, the star of "The Untouchables." He posed for photographs with the troops. The last entertainment before Christmas was provided by a small detachment from the 3dMarDiv Band. They sloshed through the mud, playing a mixture of martial music and Christmas tunes as they visited troops manning the trench lines and bunkers protecting Khe Sanh.

As Christmas approached, the cratchins continued to overwhelm the area. When the sun broke through, the two UH-34 helicopters usually stationed at Khe Sanh proceeded with the daily logistical flights from the combat base to Hills 861 and 881 South.

Getting onto the outpost on Hill 950 was especially challenging. While Hills 881 South and 861 could be visible from the airstrip at Khe Sanh, fog frequently surrounded Hill 950. Reaching 950 on foot was a difficult, if not impossible, task as the approaches to the hill were extremely steep. Crossing the flooded Rao Quan, which ran between Khe Sanh Combat Base and Hill 950, was dangerous for Marine infantrymen. Earlier in the year, prior to the monsoon rains, the NVA had attacked Hill 950 and came close to overrunning the outpost. Defending Marines called in artillery on their own small position and avoided defeat.

Improving positions was a never-completed task at Khe Sanh. Units from a Naval Mobile Construction Battalion (Seabee) were assigned to Khe Sanh to improve the airstrip, a monumental task during the monsoon just before Christmas.

Begging, bribing or even using the chain of command resulted in a remarkable event involving the Seabees. A few of the Seabees briefly left their round-the-clock mission of upgrading the airstrip. Using a backhoe and other implements, an additional trench line was dug outside a portion of the regular trench line. With the battalion stretched thin, 1st Bn lacked the resources to man the new trench line. They did, however, put in a formidable addition to the defenses by installing double apron and concertina barbed wire outside the new trench line. These efforts paid big dividends later when an Army of the Republic of South Vietnam Ranger battalion reported to Khe Sanh. They were moved into the new trenches that had been installed along a major avenue of approach leading toward the base.

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Obtaining wood to help improve and provide support for sandbags as overhead protection proved difficult. Most sturdy trees were well away from Khe Sanh and were so filled with shrapnel from the previous hill battles that saws and axes were useless in felling them. Trenches were continually damaged by the heavy monsoon rains.

As Christmas neared, intelligence sources revealed that North Vietnamese forces were beginning to amass around Khe Sanh. "Many hoof prints coming in, no hoof prints going out." "Bravo" Co from the division reconnaissance battalion was based at Khe Sanh and reported increased signs of the enemy. Khe Sanh was also home for a U.S. Army Special Forces forward operations base, FOB-3, which housed a Special Observations Group (SOG). Dozens of black Huey helicopters appeared periodically at FOB-3, loaded troops, then headed westward. One of their missions was to obtain information along the Ho Chi Minh Trail. They also made frequent attempts to interdict the trail and capture prisoners. Scuttlebutt had it that SOG received orders directly from Saigon.

A small U.S. Air Force Tiger Hound unit operating from Khe Sanh provided additional intelligence. Pilots and aerial observers, flying Piper Cub-size aircraft dubbed O-1 Bird Dogs, confirmed heavy enemy movement toward Khe Sanh. This galvanized everyone at Khe Sanh. The North Vietnamese Army was up to something, and it would happen soon.

The movement of the rifle company from the bridge site across the Rao Quan River back to Khe Sanh provided additional manpower just before Christmas. A few more surprises were added to Khe Sanh's defenses. One of these involved installing lethal fougasse—a mixture of gasoline, oil and various explosives in 55-gallon drums, just outside the barbed wire and along other avenues of approach.

The drums proved doubly useful when filled with gasoline and diesel fuel. They were placed around the perimeter to mark friendly lines. During a major attack, they would have been lighted to outline the perimeter. Specially outfitted Air Force aircraft, dubbed "Puff, the Magic Dragon" and armed with modern-day high-powered Gatling guns, could use the burning oil drums as markers to avoid casualties from friendly fire.

In mid-December, 3d Bn, 26th Marines, commanded by Lieutenant Colonel Harry L. Alderman, returned to Khe Sanh. Use of the airstrip had become a challenge during the preceding two months. A Navy construction battalion detachment worked around-the-clock to repair rain damage. The regimental commander, Col Lownds, spent hours alongside the Seabees, providing encouragement and advice. Because of the need for illumination for the work force on the airstrip, "light discipline" at the base basically was nonexistent.

Signs of increased enemy activity were reported almost daily by the patrols from Bravo Co, 3d Reconnaissance Bn. The patrols by the companies on the hills revealed recently abandoned field kitchens and directional markers along trails that resulted in an edgy, tense feeling that the enemy was preparing for battle.

Villages of Bru Montagnards were nearby along Route 9. The tribes had endured poor treatment from other Vietnamese for generations. Maps were dotted with the names of Bru villages, now marked "Village destroyed."

Weather permitting, the hills into Laos were visible each day, where the Ho Chi Minh Trail operated like Interstate 95 carrying the enemy south. Battlefield intelligence revealed that large numbers of the enemy in division strength were stopping around Khe Sanh. Higher-level intelligence, such as delicate sensors, radio interceptions and prisoner interrogation, revealed that the enemy was close by and in considerable numbers.

As Christmas neared, several well-armed, hard-core NVA divisions were nearby. Where could such a large number of enemy fighters find shelter? Michael Herr, author of "Dispatches," a highly acclaimed book about the war in Vietnam, spent time in and around Khe Sanh and in his book describes the area as follows: "The Highlands of Vietnam are spooky, unbearably spooky, spooky beyond belief. They are a run of erratic mountain ranges, gnarled valleys, jungled ravines." The media latched onto the story and began comparing the past tragic battle for Dien Bien Phu to a future battle for Khe Sanh Combat Base. The feelings of the Marines ranged from uneasy to "let them come; we're ready."

In spite of the increasing tension, life went on as usual at the base. Troops continued to go on rest and relaxation trips as scheduled. Married Marines usually chose Hawaii, where they met their wives. Single Marines chose more exotic locations, such as Bangkok. Mail from home increased as family and friends remembered the troops with Christmas packages of candy, cookies and photos from home.

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Dick Camp Jr., commander of Lima Co, 3d Bn, 26th Marines, has vivid memories of Christmas Eve 1967. His battalion had just returned to Khe Sanh Combat Base after spending several days sweeping the adjacent jungles. His company gunnery sergeant approached him and asked where he should put the packages. Busy getting his company settled in, Capt Camp impatiently told the "gunny" to put them anywhere. Several minutes later Camp saw Marines stacking box after box of Christmas packages that became a gigantic pile near his CP foxhole. Girl Scouts from his hometown had collected hundreds of boxes of cookies. Some members of the company also had received a few small baby bottles containing various alcoholic beverages. The battalion provided half-frozen eggnog, nonalcoholic of course, and each Marine and corpsman received a box of cookies plus other goodies, as available.

The sounds of battle from Hill 950 came from Second Lieutenant Marshall "Skip" Wells' 3d Platoon, Charlie Co, 1st Bn, 26th Marines, as they repelled an enemy attempt to overrun the hill position. The days around Christmas had been designated a cease-fire period by both sides. Following their usual procedure, the NVA, trying to catch the enemy off-guard, launched an attack on 950.

On Christmas Day Col Lownds hopped on board a UH-34. He had the crew tie a green smoke grenade on one side and a red smoke grenade on the other. The pilot circled each hill outpost, then circled the Special Forces camp at Lang Vei. While green and red smoke streamed from the helicopter, Col Lownds stood at the door waving a Christmas greeting to all the valiant troops who, in less than 30 days, would fight in one of the most epic battles of the war.

Editor's note: James Wilkinson enlisted in 1948 and was commissioned in 1951. He served as a rifle platoon leader in the Korean War in 1965 and as an advisor to the Korean Marine Corps. He served as a battalion commander at Khe Sanh, 1967-68; as executive officer, Fourth Marine Regiment, 1968; and is a graduate from Marine Corps Command & Staff College.

After retirement from the USMC, Wilkinson became senior resident vice president at Merrill Lynch, retiring in 1995. His previous articles in Leatherneck are "Nicknames and Marines" and "Marines, Mittens and Korea."

© 2004 Leatherneck Magazine. All rights reserved.